Black Chokeberry

Planting & Care for Deciduous Shrub – Aronia-Chokeberry

Preparation

• The Black Chokeberry is an excellent landscape shrub with multi-season interest.
• The dark, glossy leaves turn purple, orange and a brilliant red in fall.
• White flowers are borne in clusters and precede the clusters of blue-black colored fruit.
• The plant is self-fruitful, and is high in Vitamin C, iodine and antioxidants.
• This plant gets to be around 5-7' tall and about 5' wide.
• The leaves are slightly smaller than the Aronia melanocarpa, and slightly finer textured.
• This shrub can be grouped or planted in along shrub borders, small gardens or open woodland areas.
• Because this plant has the ability to withstand wet conditions it’s the perfect plant for growing on the margins of ponds or streams. Excellent addition to naturalized areas where its suckering, colonial growth habit does not need to be restrained.
• Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade.
• This plant does have a wide range of soil tolerance including boggy soils.
• You’ll get the best fruit production when you plant in full sun.
• Be sure to remove root suckers to prevent colonial spread.

Opening Plant Material

• Bare Root - Cut open the bundle (top and roots are tied) and separate all the plants. Soak roots in buckets of water until planted. Each plant type will be labeled separately for identification. Do not expose the roots to sun. They should never dry out. Keep roots covered. All bare-root plants must be trimmed when planted. 
• Grow Bags - Remove bag by using a utility knife to slit up the side and peel off the fabric exposing the soil and roots. Plant the root ball just like you would a container plant. No trimming of roots is necessary for grow bags.
• B&B - Soak root ball very well. Dig a hole at least 6" wider and no deeper than the size of the ball on the plant. Rotate the plant to the proper position. Never lift or move trees by the tops.
• Containers - Completely saturate all container plants by putting in a larger container of water until stops bubbling, remove. Now ready to plant. Dig a hole no deeper than the depth of the container and 6" or more, making sure it’s wider on the sides.

Planting Bare Root

• Plant Bare root in fall. A good indicator if you can still plant is if the ground is still workable you’re good to go. If a hard frost is expected be sure to hold off on planting.
• Dig a hole at least 6" wider and the same depth as the root mass. The crown or graft of the plant should be slightly higher than ground level where it was grown at the nursery.
• Trim off the broken roots and branches.
• Place fertilizer packets in hole (if purchased). Do not place other fertilizers in the planting hole. *Use Our Recommended Fertilizer.
• Spread the roots and fill halfway with soil, then water until soil settles completely saturating the soil and planting pit.
• Re-adjust plant and fill the hole with the rest of the soil.
• Back fill the balance of the soil and water well. 
• See our link below “Handling & Planting Guidelines” for illustrations on planting.   

Planting Grow Bags

• Plant grow bags in spring or fall.
• Notice where the base of the trunk flairs out from the tree. This is called the root flair. This root flair should show when the tree is planted. If necessary, add soil under the ball so the root flair is exposed.
• Place fertilizer packets into the bottom of the hole (if purchased). *Use Our Recommended Fertilizer.
• Backfill the hole with soil, making sure the top of the root ball is visible and slightly higher than the soil around it.
• Firm the soil around the plant. Water well to settle soil around the root ball.

Planting B&B trees

• Plant B&B trees in spring or fall. A good indicator if you can still plant is if the ground is still workable you’re good to go. If a hard frost is expected be sure to hold off on planting.
• Notice where the base of the trunk flairs out from the tree. This is called the root flair. This root flair should show when the tree is planted. If necessary, add soil under the ball so the root flair is exposed.
• Place fertilizer packets into the bottom of the hole (if purchased). *Use Our Recommended Fertilizer
• Backfill ½ of the hole with soil and completely saturate the soil with water.
• Once the tree is straight and located as desired, cut and remove twine. Then, remove or bend back top ⅓ of metal basket. Lastly, remove exposed burlap from top of ball
• Fill the hole to the top of the ball with soil, then soak well with water and let settle.
• The top of the root ball should be visible and slightly higher than the soil around it.
• Add mulch on top of soil making sure to not put mulch against the trunk or stems.
• See our link below “Handling & Planting Guidelines” for illustrations on planting.

Planting containers

• Slide plant from pot by tapping on the bottom of the pot.
• With shovel or knife trim bottom 2" off of the root ball for plants in plastic containers.
• Rotate the plant to the proper position. Never lift or move plants by the tops.
• Place the root ball in the hole.
• Notice where the base of the trunk flairs out from the tree. This is called the root flair. This root flair should show when the tree is planted. If necessary, add soil under the ball so the root flair is exposed.
• Place fertilizer packets into the bottom of the hole (if purchased). *Use Our Recommended Fertilizer.
• Backfill the hole with soil, making sure the top of the root ball is visible and slightly higher than the soil around it.
• Firm the soil around the plant. Water well to settle soil around the root ball.

Pruning - After Planting

• Bare Root - Prune ALL bare root plants to reduce transplant shock and ensure success. Pruning should occur either before or as soon after planting as possible. All pruning should be done with a sharp pruning shears.
• B&B, Grow Bags & containers - Although it is not essential for these types to be pruned after planting, a light pruning for shape, to remove any broken branches from shipping, or to thin out a heavily branched plant will help in the transplanting process and in the appearance of your new planting.

Pruning - Through-out the Season

• Once a month in March-September - Cut off the black chokeberry's suckers (the shoots that sprout from roots) as close to the ground as possible. Pruning theses helps control the shrub's spread. 
• After flowering - Prune black chokeberry stems and branches to encourage bushiness, cutting the shrub to 20 inches above the ground after it flowers. Prune each stem or branch just above a leaf node (looks like a small lump or bud) to avoid die-back in the plant.
• In order to get the most out of your chokeberry plant, be sure to prune when it’s around 8 to 10 years old to improve fruit production. Cut its branches and stems to 40 inches above the ground after the plant flowers. Repeat this procedure every four or five years or so.

Watering - After Planting

• Plants typically take approximately 6 weeks to establish new roots in your soil. During this period, water plants as often as every 2-4 days at the start and at least a minimum of once per week.
• Beyond the 6 week establishment period, water once per week, unless rains occur.
• Stick your finger into the soil around 3” to check soil moisture.

Watering - Through-out the Season

• After the first season, plants should only be watered during extended periods without rain.
• How do you know if your plants need water? The easiest way to tell is to touch the soil around the roots. If it is moist, there is no need to water. If it is dry, give it a good soaking with the hose end (no nozzle) watering the soil only, not the leaves.
• Stick your finger into the soil around 3” to check soil moisture.

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